A black star in a false Spanish twilight: Here's the story of my 1st total solar eclipse

假西班牙黄昏中的一颗黑星：这是我第一次日全食的故事

I had never seen a total solar eclipse. That's a strange thing to admit for the skywatching writer at Space.com, but the truth is that the opportunity had simply never come up.

我从未见过日全食。对于 Space.com 的 skywatching 作家来说，承认这一点是一件奇怪的事情，但事实是这个机会根本就没有出现过。

When it comes to eclipses, I've always been beguiled by their beauty from afar. I've always hoped to see that strange moment when a black sun manifests to extend a glowing atmosphere into the fleeting twilight of totality. But after 37 years I hadn't once found myself in the path of the moon's inner shadow, and it was starting to feel like something that simply happened to other people.

说到日食，我总是被远处的美丽所迷惑。我一直希望看到那个奇怪的时刻，当一个黑色的太阳显现，将一个发光的大气层延伸到转瞬即逝的全食黄昏。但是37年后，我从未发现自己在月亮内在阴影的路径上，这开始感觉像是发生在其他人身上的事情。

That all changed when I joined Space.com and my life became anchored in the movements of the planets, moon and stars. I was offered the chance to report on the 2026 total solar eclipse from Spain, while our skywatching editor, Daisy Dobrijevic, witnessed totality from an HX Expedition's cruise aboard MS Spitsbergen in East Greenland. In the end, my first eclipse experience would be everything I had hoped for and more. A perfect blend of science, awe, culture and faith, that I'll carry with me for the rest of my life.

当我加入Space.com时，这一切都改变了，我的生活锚定在行星、月亮和恒星的运动中。我有机会从西班牙报道2026年的日全食，而我们的skywatching编辑Daisy Dobrijevic在东格陵兰岛的Spitsbergen号上目睹了HX Expedition的日全食。最终，我的第一次日食体验将是我所希望的一切，甚至更多。科学、敬畏、文化和信仰的完美融合，我会带着它度过余生。

I covered the Aug. 12 eclipse from the small village — or pueblo — of Valoria la Buena in central Spain. There, I joined a team of citizen scientists from the Dynamic Eclipse Broadcast (DEB) Initiative, a voluntary initiative guided by professional astronomers from Southern Illinois University and, where possible, part funded by grants from the NASA Science Mission Directorate and the National Science Foundation. For this eclipse, the DEB was tasked with capturing data on the sun's corona while transmitting a live feed to a NASA webcast from within the path of totality.

我在西班牙中部的小村庄——或者说普韦布洛——报道了8月12日的日食。在那里，我加入了一个来自动态日食广播（DEB）倡议的公民科学家团队，这是一个由南伊利诺伊大学专业天文学家指导的自愿倡议，在可能的情况下，部分资金来自美国宇航局科学任务理事会和国家科学基金会。对于这次日食，DEB的任务是捕捉太阳日冕的数据，同时从全食路径内向美国宇航局的网络广播传输直播。

Months of preparation, writing and trading emails with the DEB team lead Charles Greenwald came and went. Before I knew it my bags were packed, my passport was in hand and I was standing in a taxi rank outside the Madrid-Barajas Airport in the heart of Spain.

与DEB团队负责人查尔斯·格林沃尔德（Charles Greenwald）进行了几个月的准备、撰写和交换电子邮件。在我意识到之前，我的行李已经打包好了，我的护照在手里，我站在西班牙心脏地带的马德里-巴拉哈斯机场外的出租车车厢里。

Hours of mild embarrassment ensued as I used broken Spanish and hand gestures to negotiate my way across the city to the Chamartín-Clara Campoamor station. Then onto a high-speed train heading north to Valladolid — a beautiful city whose pronunciation I butchered for the entirety of my stay.

当我用蹩脚的西班牙语和手势穿过城市到达查马丁-克拉拉坎波阿莫尔车站时，我感到有些尴尬。然后登上一列高速列车，向北前往巴利亚多利德——一个美丽的城市，我在整个逗留期间都在大声朗读它的发音。

Upon arrival I was met by Charles' brother in law Santiago and nephew Andreas, who had travelled from Guadalajara, Mexico to witness the eclipse. Andreas led us on a short detour to hunt down some quality coffee beans — he's something of an aficionado. Then on to Valoria la Buena, by means of a final 30-minute car ride that would take us deep into the path of totality.

到达后，查尔斯的妹夫圣地亚哥和侄子安德烈亚斯迎接了我，他们从墨西哥瓜达拉哈拉赶来目睹日食。安德烈亚斯带领我们绕了一小段路去寻找一些优质的咖啡豆——他是一个爱好者。然后前往Valoria la Buena，最后30分钟的车程将带我们深入到整体之路。

I had embraced Charles' idea of joining the DEB group not only for the citizen science, but also because of the unique opportunity to observe the eclipse with a multinational group hailing from Mexico, the U.S. and, more locally, members from Madrid and Valladolid.

我接受了查尔斯加入DEB小组的想法，不仅是为了公民科学，还因为这是一个独特的机会，可以与来自墨西哥、美国的跨国小组一起观测日食，更多的是来自马德里和巴利亚多利德的成员。

Half of the group spoke fluent English while the other spoke none at all — a mix that set the stage for an intoxicating blend of meaningful conversation and rapt observation, as the group talked passionately in Spanish over magnificent home-cooked food prepared chiefly by Santiago, his wife Gaby and Andreas.

一半的人说一口流利的英语，而另一半根本不会说——这种混合为有意义的对话和全神贯注的观察创造了令人陶醉的融合，因为这群人用西班牙语热情地交谈着主要由圣地亚哥、他的妻子盖比和安德烈亚斯准备的美味家常菜。

Once at the house in Valoria la Buena I finally got the chance to connect face to face with Charles, after months of sporadic video calls. In the months leading up to the eclipse Charles had dedicated precious down time to prepare his team and test new software for the solar telescopes.

在瓦洛丽亚·拉布埃纳的房子里，经过几个月零星的视频通话，我终于有机会与查尔斯面对面交流。在日食前的几个月里，查尔斯投入了宝贵的休息时间来准备他的团队，并测试太阳望远镜的新软件。

As an undergraduate, Charles had studied optics and physics before ultimately pursuing a career in aviation, which nowadays sees him fly around the world for the global shipping and logistics giant FedEx. Over dinner that first night I discovered that he was also a retired colonel in the United States Air Force, and had flown some 35 different aircraft ranging from an F15 fighter to a C-17 globemaster over the course of his military career.

本科时，查尔斯学习了光学和物理学，最终从事航空职业，如今他为全球航运和物流巨头联邦快递环游世界。在第一天晚上的晚餐上，我发现他也是美国空军的一名退役上校，在他的军事生涯中驾驶过大约35种不同的飞机，从F15战斗机到C-17环球霸王。

He had first discovered the DEB in an article from Sky & Telescope during a brief FedEx stopoff in Sydney, Australia. After heeding the call for volunteers and spent the next year assembling a team of family and students to capture the Great American Eclipse of 2024.

在澳大利亚悉尼的一次联邦快递短暂停留期间，他在《天空与望远镜》的一篇文章中第一次发现了DEB。在响应志愿者的号召后，花了一年时间组建了一个由家庭和学生组成的团队来捕捉2024年的美国日食。

Several members of the group, including Santiago, Andreas and Arath — a student at the Universidad de Guadalajara — are veterans of that first campaign. For others, like myself, it would be an incredible first. But Charles' passion is what brought it all together.

该组织的几名成员，包括圣地亚哥、安德烈亚斯和瓜达拉哈拉大学的学生阿拉斯，都是第一次运动的老兵。对于像我这样的其他人来说，这将是一个不可思议的第一次。但查尔斯的激情让这一切走到了一起。

In the blink of an eye it was Aug. 11 — and we had just one day to go.

一眨眼就到了8月11日——我们只剩下一天了。

With prep time running short, I packed my camera gear and headed out to our eclipse site, where the DEB team was busy practicing with their solar scope.

由于准备时间不多了，我收拾好摄影设备，前往我们的日食现场，DEB团队正忙着练习他们的太阳望远镜。

My goal was to observe and get the lay of the land. I also needed a little time to practice with my own humble setup — a Fujifilm X-T5 camera with a XF 70-300 mm lens, plus a Manfrotto tripod and a handy solar filter courtesy of Celestron, which worked magic with the aid of a little Blu Tack.

我的目标是观察和了解这片土地的状况。我还需要一点时间来练习我自己简陋的设置——一台带有XF 70-300毫米镜头的富士X-T5相机，加上一个曼富图三脚架和一个由Celestron提供的方便的太阳能过滤器，它在一点蓝色大头钉的帮助下发挥了神奇的作用。

The team had managed to convince a kindly resident to let us set up outside their villa, and to use their internet to ensure connectivity for the NASA stream.

该团队设法说服了一位好心的居民让我们在他们的别墅外面安顿下来，并使用他们的互联网来确保美国宇航局溪流的连接。

It was a perfect spot with a near-pristine view to the west — an important feature considering that the sun would be less than 10 degrees above the horizon at totality — less than the width of a clenched fist held at arm's length.

这是一个完美的地点，可以看到近乎原始的西方景色——考虑到太阳在全食时高于地平线不到10度，这是一个重要的特征——不到握紧拳头的宽度。

There had been a little commotion earlier that day. Upon hearing that his parents had agreed to let perfect strangers access their internet, the son had, understandably, cautioned against letting Charles use the Wi-Fi, fearing that his story was a little too fanciful, and that he was some kind of scam! Thankfully it all got straightened out with a quick Google search, and we didn't have the ethernet plug pulled on the operation.

那天早些时候发生了一点骚动。当听说他的父母已经同意让完全陌生的人访问他们的互联网时，可以理解的是，儿子警告不要让查尔斯使用Wi-Fi，担心他的故事有点太幻想了，他是某种骗局!谢天谢地，通过快速的谷歌搜索，这一切都得到了解决，我们没有拔掉以太网插头。

Charles and Arath were already getting the telescope to track the sun by the time I arrived. They'd also tested their uplink with NASA and the connection to the main DEB team 91 miles (147 kilometers) to the northwest in the city of Leon, which was looking stable.

当我到达时，查尔斯和阿拉斯已经在拿望远镜来追踪太阳了。他们还测试了与美国宇航局的上行链路，以及与莱昂市西北91英里（147公里）处的DEB主团队的连接，该团队看起来很稳定。

I took the opportunity to catch up with Arath, who dreamed of pursuing a masters degree in mathematics at Cambridge University upon completing his studies at the Universidad de Guadalajara in Mexico. Nearby, Aimar and Aaron — a pair of passionate high schoolers from Spain — had their heads down as they worked on their own mathematical equations in the patch of shade cast by a solitary umbrella. They had reached out to join the group after hearing about the DEB on a university noticeboard, and later that day quizzed me on the best places to find the latest scientific studies. I'm 80% sure that they're already smarter than me.

我借此机会采访了Arath，他梦想在墨西哥瓜达拉哈拉大学完成学业后，在剑桥大学攻读数学硕士学位。在附近，艾马尔和亚伦——一对来自西班牙的热情高中生——低着头，在一把孤独的雨伞投下的阴凉处计算着自己的数学方程。在大学公告栏上听说DEB后，他们主动加入了这个小组，当天晚些时候，他们问我在哪里可以找到最新的科学研究。我80%肯定他们已经比我聪明了。

All the while I was getting to grips with solar photography. I had — with a little help — managed to centre the sun in my frame and after 15 minutes of toying with settings had snapped my first crisp shot of the solar disk.

一直以来，我都在掌握太阳摄影。在一点帮助下，我设法将太阳置于我的相框中心，在摆弄了15分钟的设置后，我拍下了我的第一张太阳圆盘的清晰照片。

Everything was looking great. The weather, our greatest potential adversary, was playing nicely. As I noted earlier, the sun would be low in the sky around the time of totality, putting a lot of atmosphere between us and the eclipse for potential clouds to coalesce in.

一切看起来都很棒。天气，我们最大的潜在对手，打得很好。正如我前面提到的，在全食前后，太阳会在天空中很低，在我们和日食之间留下了大量的大气层，供潜在的云聚集。

But Charles had been tracking the forecasts closely, and everything he'd seen indicated that the western sky would be clear as the eclipse darkened the sky on the 12th. Only one unlikely threat to totality remained.

但是查尔斯一直在密切关注天气预报，他所看到的一切都表明，随着12日的日食使天空变暗，西部的天空将会晴朗。只剩下一个对极权主义的不太可能的威胁了。

The summer had seen Europe endure an oppressively dry, hot summer, which had seen wildfires spring up across the continent. Having spent a week just north of the Spanish border in Carcassonne, France in July, I could testify to the colossal smoke clouds that billow up from such a fire, which could easily obscure the sun as firefighters worked to bring it under control on the ground below. Thankfully, no such threat materialized.

今年夏天，欧洲经历了一个极其干燥、炎热的夏天，野火在整个欧洲大陆爆发。7 月份，我在法国卡尔卡松的西班牙边境以北度过了一周，我可以亲眼目睹这样一场大火升起的巨大烟云，当消防队员努力控制下面的火势时，这很容易遮住太阳。值得庆幸的是，这种威胁没有实现。

I sought a little solitude on that final night before the eclipse. The terrace was unoccupied, so I laid back on the astroturf, traced out the constellations above and allowed my anticipation to build. As I watched, a single Perseid raced through the stars of the Summer Triangle — a stunning opening act for the solar spectacle to come.

在日食前的最后一个晚上，我寻求一点独处。露台无人居住，所以我躺在人造草坪上，描绘出上面的星座，让我的期待建立起来。当我观看时，一颗英仙座流星雨穿过夏季三角的恒星——这是即将到来的太阳奇观的惊人开场表演。

The day of the total solar eclipse had finally arrived — and with it a strange nervous energy that made me feel as if I was vibrating on a cellular level. I was hours from seeing something that had terrified and awed my ancestors, drawn adventurers half way across the globe and allowed scientists to understand the true nature of our parent star.

日全食的日子终于到来了——随之而来的是一种奇怪的神经能量，让我觉得自己好像在细胞层面上振动。几个小时后，我就看到了让我的祖先感到恐惧和敬畏的东西，吸引了半个地球的冒险家，并让科学家们了解了我们母星的真实性质。

Charles, on the other hand, confessed to being rested and ready, despite working through a last minute technical glitch that had reared its head in the past few days.

另一方面，查尔斯承认他已经休息并做好了准备，尽管在过去几天里，他在最后一刻遇到了一个技术故障。

The fan on the computer responsible for sending commands to the telescope and uplinking to NASA had simply given out. At the height of Spanish summer. In the middle of an oppressive heatwave. Ordinarily that would probably have been game over. But this is a team including physics heads, an engineer and all round brilliant people, so they came up with a plan. They built a DIY heatsink.

电脑上负责向望远镜发送命令和向美国国家航空航天局上行链路的风扇干脆放弃了。在西班牙盛夏的时候。在令人窒息的热浪中。通常情况下，这可能已经结束了。但这是一个包括物理负责人、一名工程师和各方面优秀人才的团队，所以他们想出了一个计划。他们自己动手做了一个散热器。

The gameplan went as follows: Andreas put a bunch of wet towels in the freezer overnight. Said towels were then transported in a cooler and placed at the bottom of a nice, shaded cardboard box at the observation site, with foil between the towel and the computer.

游戏计划是这样的：安德烈亚斯把一堆湿毛巾放在冰箱里过夜。然后，这些毛巾被装进冷藏箱，放在观察点一个漂亮的、有阴影的纸箱底部，毛巾和电脑之间用箔纸包裹。

Add to that a hand fan and cooler blocks from the freezer and Viola, you've got yourself a homemade heatsink. Human ingenuity versus technology and a Spanish heatwave. We would know the victor soon enough.

再加上一个手扇和冰箱和中提琴的冷却块，你就有了一个自制的散热器。人类的聪明才智与技术和西班牙热浪。我们很快就会知道胜利者。

In the meantime I had another first to experience. Andreas had arranged for a local Catholic priest to hold a special Mass at the local church to mark the day of the eclipse. And I'd been invited to join them.

与此同时，我又经历了一个第一次。安德烈亚斯安排了一位当地的天主教牧师在当地教堂举行一场特别的弥撒，以纪念日食。我被邀请加入他们。

I am not a Catholic myself, but have always been taken with the beauty of European churches and cathedrals, and was keen to experience Mass. After quizzing Andreas on theology and triple checking it wasn't an imposition, I gratefully accepted.

我自己不是天主教徒，但一直被欧洲教堂和大教堂的美丽所吸引，并热衷于体验弥撒。在询问了安德烈亚斯关于神学的问题并三次确认这不是强加后，我感激地接受了。

The church bells had been a constant companion during my stay in Valoria la Buena, chiming every hour on the hour since my arrival. They emanated from a stunning 250-year-old church located at the heart of the pueblo, which had been constructed over three distinct phases.

在我住在瓦洛利亚拉布埃纳期间，教堂的钟声一直是我的伴侣，自从我到达后，每小时都响起。它们来自一座令人惊叹的250年历史的教堂，位于普韦布洛的中心，这座教堂分三个不同的阶段建造。

During Mass, the priest remarked in Spanish on the incredible nature of the upcoming eclipse as the group listened attentively while wearing specially made eclipse t-shirts. A poignant moment of religion and science in absolute harmony.

在弥撒中，牧师用西班牙语讲述了即将到来的日食的不可思议的性质，这群人穿着特别制作的日食t恤认真聆听。宗教和科学绝对和谐的辛酸时刻。

After, I disappeared to prepare while Charles and the DEB team ferried the scope and equipment to our observing site. There was time for one final communication test with NASA.

之后，当查尔斯和DEB团队将瞄准镜和设备运送到我们的观测点时，我消失了做准备。有时间与美国宇航局进行最后的通信测试。

Then it was time. And it wasn't just us.

然后是时候了。而且不仅仅是我们。

Half the town must have turned out to experience the eclipse. Citizen scientists and family mingled with friends and locals as an impromptu block party got underway in Valoria la Buena.

镇上一半的人一定经历了日食。公民科学家和家人与朋友和当地人混在一起，一场即兴的街区派对在Valoria la Buena开始。

I set up my camera close to Charles and the DEB scope, as the DIY heatsink worked to cool the fanless laptop in defiance of the Spanish heatwave.

我把相机放在查尔斯和黛比望远镜附近，因为DIY散热器不顾西班牙热浪冷却无风扇笔记本电脑。

Aaron, Aimar, Rosa and Siempre watched on as I double-checked the solar filter and settings on my camera, while glancing paranoid at the eclipse timings on my laptop. We were quickly joined by a semi-circle of enthusiastic locals curious about everything from the eclipse and the DEB to science journalism and Space.com.

当我仔细检查相机上的太阳能滤光片和设置时，Aaron、Aimar、Rosa和Siempre看着我，同时偏执地瞥了一眼笔记本电脑上的日食时间。我们很快就加入了一个由热情的当地人组成的半圈，他们对从日食和DEB到科学新闻和Space.com的一切都感到好奇。

As a result I was lost in conversation as the moment of first contact arrived and the moon took its first tentative bite out of the sun. Someone shouted and I snapped to. I immediately forgot how to use a camera. Remembered. And snapped my first photograph of the eclipsed sun.

结果，当第一次接触的时刻到来时，我迷失在谈话中，月亮第一次试探性地咬住了太阳。有人喊了一声，我附和了。我立刻忘记了如何使用相机。记住了。拍下了我的第一张日食照片。

My first instinct was that something was ineffably wrong. The sight had activated an ancient and superstitious circuit in my brain that insisted the sun simply shouldn't look this way. That I should be doing something to make it whole again.

我的第一直觉是出了难以形容的问题。这一景象激活了我大脑中一个古老而迷信的回路，坚持认为太阳不应该这样。我应该做点什么让它重新完整。

Nervous excitement waxed in time with the waning of the solar crescent, which grew thinner with each minute as the moon's silhouette sank ever deeper into the sun. It was spectacular, but in hindsight little more than a prelude to the wonder of totality.

随着太阳新月的消失，紧张的兴奋随着时间的推移而变得模糊，随着月亮的轮廓越来越深地沉入太阳中，太阳新月每分钟都变得越来越薄。这很壮观，但事后看来，这只不过是整体奇迹的前奏。

As the last of the solar disk threatened to slip behind the moon I panicked. Alternating between eclipse glasses and my hastily retrieved solar binoculars, unsure which would provide the best experience.

当最后一个太阳圆盘有滑到月球后面的危险时，我惊慌失措。在日食眼镜和我匆忙取回的太阳双筒望远镜之间交替，不确定哪一个会提供最好的体验。

The binoculars.

望远镜。

Shouts of awe echoed behind as the final shred of the solar disk created a magnificent Diamond ring flare effect on the trailing edge of the lunar disk. I ripped the solar filter away from my camera and lowered the binoculars from my eyes.

当太阳圆盘的最后一片碎片在月球圆盘的后缘产生了壮观的钻石环耀斑效应时，敬畏的呼喊声在身后回荡。我从相机上撕下太阳能滤光片，把望远镜从眼睛上放下。

The moment I had envisioned for years in my mind's eye years had finally arrived, more spectacular than I could have hoped.

我多年来在脑海中设想的时刻终于到来了，比我希望的还要壮观。

With my own eyes I saw the sun's atmosphere reach out from behind the moon's silhouette. A black star shining in a false twilight.

我亲眼看到太阳的大气层从月亮的轮廓后面伸出来。一颗黑星在虚假的暮色中闪耀。

As before, the sight stroked a primal part of my psyche that told me it was all wrong. Like watching a leviathan pass just beneath the surface in a fathomless ocean. To my senses, the eclipsed sun seemed to fill the sky. Venus was visible gleaming star-like and brilliant above, but the impossible sun was our only focus.

和以前一样，这一幕触动了我心灵的一个原始部分，告诉我这一切都是错的。就像在深不可测的海洋中看着一个利维坦从水面下经过。在我的感官中，日食似乎充满了天空。金星在上面像星星一样闪闪发光，明亮无比，但不可能的太阳是我们唯一的焦点。

I grabbed my unfiltered binoculars for a closer look - something that can only be done when the sun's photosphere is completely masked by the moon during totality. A bright prominence glowed to the left of the lunar disk, outshining the corona that surrounded the natural satellite.

我拿起未经过滤的双筒望远镜仔细观察——这只有在全食期间太阳的光球层被月亮完全掩盖时才能做到。一个明亮的突起在月球圆盘的左侧发光，超过了环绕天然卫星的日冕。

It was our eclipse. 1 minute and 37 seconds of totality. Another will follow in 2027, but it wouldn't be the same. It'll be a different corona, at a different altitude, enjoyed with different people. Utterly unique.

那是我们的日食。总计1分37秒。另一场将于 2027 年举行，但不会一样。这将是一个不同的日冕，在不同的高度，和不同的人一起享受。完全独特。

I triggered my camera shutter a dozen times. I'd knocked it out of focus upon removing the solar filter. It didn't seem to matter.

我按下相机快门十几次。当我移除太阳能过滤器时，我把它打偏了。这似乎无关紧要。

As the sun emerged from behind the moon I turned my eyes back to my camera, which had decided to stop talking to my phone at some point during totality. Ten minutes of berating the inanimate object later the connection was back, and my (out of focus) views of totality were on their way to our solar eclipse live blog.

当太阳从月亮后面升起时，我把目光转回我的相机，相机决定在全食期间的某个时候停止与我的手机通话。斥责这个无生命的物体十分钟后，连接又回来了，我的（失焦的）全食观正在送到我们的日食直播博客的路上。

Charles and the team had been diligently capturing data on the sun's atmosphere throughout totality, while streaming live views to NASA as they held their eclipse show in Leon.

查尔斯和他的团队一直在努力捕捉整个日全食期间太阳大气的数据，同时在莱昂举行日食表演时向美国宇航局直播实时视图。

It was, to me, a shining example of citizen science, which had brought family, friends, locals and students together as one to enjoy one of the most spectacular sights that our solar system has to offer.

对我来说，这是公民科学的一个光辉例子，它将家人、朋友、当地人和学生聚集在一起，欣赏我们太阳系提供的最壮观的景色之一。

The partially eclipsed sun set over the western horizon as Charles accepted the cheers of the DEB group. Our last night in Valoria la Buena was spent among newfound friends, discussing the Strokes, love and coffee, all while enjoying a little rum.

当查尔斯接受黛比集团的欢呼声时，部分日食的太阳落在了西方的地平线上。我们在Valoria la Buena的最后一个晚上是和新认识的朋友一起度过的，讨论中风、爱情和咖啡，同时享受一点朗姆酒。

My return journey was a malaise of delayed trains, a cancelled flight and a sea of unfamiliar faces. But none of that mattered. I was dwelling on that magnificent black sun at the moment of totality, of the unnatural twilight and of the people I met along the way.

我的回程是一场混乱，火车晚点，航班取消，陌生面孔的海洋。但这些都不重要。我凝视着全食时刻那个壮丽的黑色太阳，不自然的黄昏，以及我沿途遇到的人们。