Is an aurora cruise worth it? I joined Hurtigruten's Signature Voyage to find out

极光巡游值得或否？投入海达路德的特色航程来寻觅真相

I've been fortunate enough to catch several northern lights displays in just a few years, including from my own backyard in Nottingham, U.K. (thank you Gannon Storm 2024). As an aurora reporter, one of the most common questions I get asked is, "Where's the best place to see them?"

幸运的是，在短短几年内，我就欣赏了几次北极光表演，其中包括在英国诺丁汉时，我在自己的后院观看的那一次（谢谢甘农风暴2024）。作为一名极光记录记者，我最经常被提问到的问题之一是，“什么地方是欣赏极光的最佳地点？”

Here's what I tell everyone: For your best chance, you'll want to head above the Arctic Circle under the auroral oval. The important thing to keep in mind is that no matter what, make sure you pick somewhere you want to go, regardless of whether the northern lights make an appearance. Why? Well, that's because they don't always show up — and that's part of their charm (and frustration).

我告诉大家的答案是：为了蹲守最佳时机，北极圈上方的极光椭圆形下无疑是最好的选择。至关紧要的是要铭记，无论如何，确保你选择了你心之所向的地方，不管北极光是否在那个地方出现。为什么这么说？嗯，那是因为他们极少出现——这也是他们魅力（即一种挫败感）所在。

That's why I love Hurtigruten's voyages. They're a window into a new world filled with Arctic life, culture and coastlines of unbridled beauty. Even without auroras, they make for an unforgettable adventure. I joined the southbound North Cape Signature Voyage, sailing from Tromsø to Oslo, which meant spending several nights above the Arctic Circle. Being this far north increases your chances of seeing the northern lights; for me it did. And in spectacular fashion at that.

这就是为什么我会中意海达路德的特色航行的原因。因为它们是通往一个满是北极生活、北极文化和无穷美丽海岸线的新世界的窗口。即使没有极光，这也是一次令人永生难忘的航行。我同样参与了南行的北角签名航行，从特罗姆瑟启程到奥斯陆这个地方，这同样意味着我要在北极圈上空度过好几个夜晚。在那么遥远的北方会使你看到北极光的机会大大增加；对我来说也的确如此。而且是令人震惊的程度。

Cruising has never really been my thing — at least, not the usual kind of cruising. I'm not drawn to floating resorts with thousands of passengers, 24/7 entertainment, or whistle-stop tours that leave little time to breathe.

巡航或许从不是我所真爱的——至少，不是真爱普通巡航。我并不喜欢有成千上万乘客的水上度假村、在24/7娱乐或和一种近乎不带喘息时间的短暂停留的旅游。

My idea of a perfect voyage is quieter, one that doesn't just give you a taste of a country but lets you truly experience it. Hurtigruten offers that and so very much more.

我心目中的所完美的一次航行是更安静的，它不仅能让你领略一个国家的风光，还能让你真正去感受这次航行。Hurtigruten海达路德提供了更多这样的机会。

A couple of years ago, I joined Hurtigruten's Astronomy Voyage along Norway's coast. It was a ship full of skywatchers and brilliant lecturers too, as onboard astronomer Tom Kerss turned the northern lights into a living lesson on space weather. I savored every minute of it, and ever since, I've wanted to experience Norway's coast again.

几年前，我参与了Hurtigruten即海达路德沿着挪威海岸线的一次天文航程。这是一艘满载天文学者和才华横溢的讲师的船，船上的一位天文学家汤姆·克斯将关于北极光知识变成了一堂关于太空的真实生动的课。我认真听讲了它的每一分钟，从那以后，我非常想再次体验挪威的海岸的经历。

So, when I heard about the company's new Signature Voyage, I couldn't wait to see how it compared.

所以，当我听说海达路德的再次招聘航程人员时，我迫不及待地想看看它的是否有所改变。

The Signature Voyage lets you stay longer at each port, giving you more time to explore on shore or join guided excursions. It also offers a more in-depth onboard experience, with a larger expedition team leading lectures, tastings and workshops, creating a hands-on connection to the culture and nature around you.

Signature Voyage特色航行能够让您在每个港口可以停留更长的时间，让您得以有更多时间在海岸上去探索或体验有导游讲解的短途旅行。它还会提供了更深层次的船上体验，有探险团队领导进行讲座、欣赏和进行研讨会，与您周围的文化和自然建立一种实践联系。

Like the Astronomy Voyage, it's a breathtaking journey, one that doesn't just give you a window into Norwegian life, but lets you live it. Waking up to a different view each morning, from snow-capped mountains and rolling hills to dramatic fjords and tiny islands peppering the landscape, there wasn't a bad view or a dull moment aboard.

跟天文之旅一样，这同样也是一次令人激动一次的旅程，它不仅给你提供一个得以了解挪威生活的窗口，还能让你去体验它的生活。每每醒来都会看到独特的景色，从白雪皑皑的山脉和起伏的丘陵风光到引人入胜的峡湾和点缀其间的小岛，在这艘船上没有糟糕的景色或让人沉闷的时刻。

It's day one of my latest voyage, and we leave Tromsø under low clouds wrapped around the mountains like a knitted hat. The MS Trollfjord hums north through crisp Arctic air. That night, a few of us paced around on deck, scanning the skies for a faint milky band of light — the first sign that something might be stirring in the Arctic sky.

这是我最近一次航行的第一天，我们在低矮的云层下驶远特罗姆瑟这个地方，云层像针织帽似的包裹着群山。在清新的空气中特罗尔峡湾号在北极向北嗡嗡作响。那天晚上，我们的伙伴们在甲板上踱步，环顾四周，寻找着一条发着微弱光芒的乳白色光带——这是北极天空中可能有什么东西在活动的第一个迹象。

Then, out of nowhere, a substorm arrives. It seems to tear a hole in the cloud just wide enough to give us aurora hunters a glimpse of the show unfolding above. A thin band of green light snakes across the sky, then suddenly begins to dance, swirling overhead and reaching down to offer us a cosmic handshake and welcome us to the Arctic. A fitting reward for those who had waited patiently out on deck.

随后，一场亚风暴不知从何而来。它仿佛要在云层上撕开了一个足够宽的洞，让我们这些极光探索者惊鸿一瞥——上面正在展开的表演：一条细细的绿光像蛇一样穿过天空，然后突然开始跳舞，在头顶上旋转，随之向我们伸出手来，向我们提供一个可以和宇宙握手机会，似乎在欢迎我们来到北极。对于那些在甲板上耐心等待的人来说，这无疑是一种的奖励。

By the time the announcement of the show comes over the tannoy and the rest of the passengers rush out after changing into coats and boots, the best of the burst is already fading. Within a minute, it's gone. The cloud rolls back in and the snow takes hold once more.

当广播中发出演出即将开始的消息，其余的乘客在换上外套和穿上靴子后便冲出去时，最美的场景也已经消退了。不到一分钟，这场极光就消失了。云卷土重来，雪再次覆盖了大片天空。

At Honningsvåg, the Arctic wind slaps awake any illusions of softness as we look out over the serene winter wilderness. I join a small group of adventurers from the Signature Voyage for an ATV ride up toward the North Cape. The ground is dusted with snow and the otherworldly terrain makes us feel like we're driving through a majestic painting.

在Honningsvåg海达路德航行过程中，当我们眺望宁静的冬季荒野时，北极的风唤醒了柔软的幻想。我融入了一小群来自签名之旅航行的冒险家们，我们一起乘坐全地形车前往北开普。地面上布满了雪，蜿蜒崎岖的地形让我们感觉像是在一幅雄伟的画中开车。

The weather changes every three minutes. Sideways hail, flurries of snow, a splash of rain. The only constant is the roaring wind.

天气变幻莫测。横向不间断飞来冰雹，小雪，小雨。但唯一不变的是呼啸着的风。

At the North Cape, you truly feel like you've reached the edge of the world. It's the northernmost point of mainland Europe, a place where weather and emotions seem to converge. It's a must-visit for anyone who ventures this far north.

在北开普省，你真的会觉得自己已经到达了这个世界的最边缘。这也是欧洲大陆的最北端，一个天堂和激情似乎在此汇聚的地方。对于任何冒险来到这么远的北方的人来说，这是一个不二之选。

That evening, as we prepare to set sail, I notice a few stars in a break in the clouds. Good enough for me. Sure enough, a small window opens and a subtle aurora appears. Almost as soon as it did, the modest show began to be shut down by clouds. Hail arrives like a hostile encore.

那晚，当我们准备好起航时，我注意到云层中闪烁着几颗星星。对我来说这是一个绝好的时机。果不其然，一扇小窗户打开了，一个微妙的极光出现了。几乎就在它发生的瞬间，这个不起眼的小插曲开始被乌云笼罩。冰雹像跟我作对安可一样到来。

I retreat to the bar, where there's live music and a low buzz of happy chatter.

我退到酒吧，那里有现场音乐和低沉的快乐聊天声。

High above the Arctic Circle, Alta is known as the "city of the northern lights," a place where auroras often dance overhead for the 21,000 who call Alta their home. As we approach, morning begins to break and Alta's shoreline flickers with houselights glowing like candles.

阿尔塔这个地方位于北极圈高处，也被称为“北极光之城”，在这里，极光经常在空中为21,000名以阿尔塔人起舞。当我们接近这个地方时，开始破晓，阿尔塔的海岸线闪烁着的房屋的亮光，像蜡烛一样照亮了周围。

This morning, we're headed to the Northern Lights Cathedral, a striking building with a large spiraling structure and titanium-clad tiles covering the exterior. Consecrated on Feb. 10, 2013, the cathedral was inspired by the meandering waves of auroras and how they dance in the sky. Inside, we join a guided tour to learn more about the interesting architecture and (very well thought-out) design.

今早，我们一起前往北极光大教堂，这是一座引人注目的建筑教堂，有着一个大型螺旋结构，外部覆盖着钛涂层瓷砖。这座大教堂于2013年2月10日举行祝圣仪式，灵感来自蜿蜒的极光以及它们在天空中的舞蹈。在里面，我们跟随了一个导游，他为我们讲解了更多关于这个有趣的建筑和（它独具匠心的）设计。

From there, we head to Alta's rock art, a UNESCO World Heritage Site inscribed in 1985. The carvings and paintings, some dating back as far as 7,000 years, depict fishing, hunting, rituals and moments of daily life. There are even some geometric shapes with no known resemblance to anything we find on Earth today — perhaps these are some prehistoric doodles? I find myself tracing the shapes with my eyes, trying to decipher the stories they tell. Yet, none depicted the aurora. I find it surprising, considering how common they are in this part of the world and how iconic they are to the landscape today.

在那里，我们便去参观阿尔塔的岩石艺术，这是1985年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的艺术。这些雕刻和绘画，有些甚至可以追溯到7000年前，描绘了捕鱼、狩猎、仪式和日常生活的状态。甚至还有一些几何形状与我们今天在地球上发现的任何东西都没有相似之处——也许这些是一些史前涂鸦？我发现自己用眼睛追踪这些形状，试图破译它们讲述的故事。然而，没有一个描绘了极光。考虑到它们在世界的这一地区是多么普遍，以及它们对当今景观是多么的标志性，我觉得这很令我惊讶。

Later that night, the sky is cruel. A blanket of thick clouds smothers the sky. People slip in and out of the bar to test the weather, hoping for just a glimpse of the stars beyond. Phone alerts buzz with aurora activity, but all we see is clouds. I take a photo anyway and the result is a green sea of clouds, a wicked reminder of what we're missing.

那天晚上晚些时候，天空很残酷。厚厚的云层笼罩着天空。人们溜进溜出酒吧来测试天气，希望能瞥见远处的星星。手机提醒中充斥着极光活动，但我们看到的只是云。我还是拍了一张照片，结果是一片绿色的云海，邪恶地提醒着我们错过了什么。

It's hard not to be disappointed at times like this, but when you're chasing auroras, you're at the whim of nature. And tonight, nature said no thank you.

在这种时候很难不失望，但当你追逐极光时，你是在大自然的突发奇想。今晚，大自然说不，谢谢。

Instead, we sit together with new friends, imagining the show that might be playing out above the clouds and talking over our day in Alta. I tell a few passengers that up here, Kp index — a scale from 0 to 9 that measures how disturbed Earth's magnetic field is, the higher the number, the stronger the northern lights — don't matter as much as clear skies. The solar wind's been strong, Earth's magnetic field is primed. If the clouds lift tomorrow, it could be our night.

相反，我们和新朋友坐在一起，想象着可能在云层之上上演的表演，谈论我们在阿尔塔的一天。我告诉一些乘客，在这里，Kp指数——一个从0到9的等级，衡量地球磁场受到的干扰程度，数字越高，北极光越强——不如晴朗的天空重要。太阳风一直很强，地球磁场已经启动。如果明天乌云散去，这可能是我们的夜晚。

We slide into Narvik under a sky that can't seem to make up its mind. Sitting in the lounge, the panoramic windows frame a serene scene: gulls looking for their next meal, a working harbor and a rain shower that doesn't quite commit. The Arctic Train takes us along rugged mountainsides, and with every passing minute, the season changes. It's a truly stunning ride, where autumn fades into winter almost in the blink of an eye. At the top, we step out into powder snow at least two feet deep, a stark contrast to the mild, rain-soaked landscape we'd left below. We learn about the Ofoten Line, built to carry iron ore through the wild terrain, before beginning our descent. On the way back down, the crew handed out warm cinnamon buns, exactly what we all needed.

我们在一片似乎无法下定决心的天空下滑入纳尔维克。坐在休息室里，全景天窗构成了一个静谧场景：寻找下一顿饭的海鸥，一个工作的港口和一场微雨。北极列车带着我们沿着崎岖的山坡，途中每一分钟的流逝，季节在不停变化。这是一次真正令人惊叹的旅程，秋天几乎在眨眼之间就来到了寒冬。在山顶，我们步入至少两英尺深的粉雪中，这与我们离开的温和、被雨水浸泡的景观形成了鲜明的对比。在开始下降之前，我们了解了Ofoten线，这条线是为了在野外运送铁矿石而建造的。在回来的路上，工作人员分发了温暖的肉桂面包，这正是我们都需要的。

That evening, I enjoyed an exquisite dinner at Røst, the ship's fine dining restaurant. Each of the five courses is a story, ingredients drawn from the Norwegian coast and served with a smile and an interesting insight into the inspiration behind each plate.

那晚，在船上的高级餐厅R ø st，我享用了一顿精致的晚餐。五道菜中的每一道都有一个独特故事，食材取自挪威海岸，对每道菜背后的灵感不禁产生有趣的见解。

But I couldn't fully relax, I still had one eye on the aurora forecast and another on the radar satellite imagery telling me we were heading towards some relatively clear skies. I had a peek outside. I spotted a telltale sign of something stirring as a milky green band whipped across the sky. This was it. I ran downstairs, donned my warm clothes and dashed back out on deck, camera in hand. It didn't take long for the deck to turn into a tiny festival, gasps, cheers and the soft click of a hundred shutters. The faint green band grows brighter, stretching across the sky and dancing to the whims of Earth's magnetic field. Then comes the color. The waxing and waning of the substorm conditions fuel auroras all night, keeping us spellbound for hours.

但我不能真的放松，我一边盯着极光预报，一边盯着雷达卫星图像，图像告诉我我们正在朝着一些相对晴朗的天气的地方前进。我在向外偷瞄，发现了一个迹象，有什么东西在动，一条奶绿色的带子划过天空。找到了，我飞快跑下楼，穿上保暖的衣服，手里拿着相机冲回甲板。没过多久，甲板上就上演了小型节日，喘息声、欢呼声和一百个百叶窗的柔和咔哒声。微弱的绿色带变得越来越亮，延伸穿过天空，随着地球磁场的变化而舞动。然后是颜色。亚风暴条件的消长整夜助长了极光，让我们着迷了几个小时。

The atmosphere is one of pure joy. Sometimes it's loud, awe-inspiring and exciting. Other times it's hushed as people take it all in and use the moment to reflect. People compare the shapes to animals. I see a chameleon with a long curling tail; someone else swears they can see a whale. Some stand there speechless, attempting to take it all in.

气氛是一种纯粹的快乐。有时很大声，令人敬畏，令人兴奋。其他时候，当人们接受这一切并利用这一刻进行反思时，一切都很安静。人们把形状比作动物。我看到一条长长的卷曲尾巴的变色龙；还有人发誓他们能看到鲸鱼。有些人站在那里说不出话来，试图接受这一切。

Near midnight, I retreat to my cabin, open the blinds and lie in bed watching the green curtains flicker and ripple through the sky. It's surreal, auroras from under a duvet.

临近午夜，我回到我的小屋，打开百叶窗，躺在床上看着绿色的窗帘在天空中闪烁和荡漾。这是超现实的，羽绒被下的极光。

Narvik set the bar impossibly high, but the days that followed were no less special.

纳尔维克把标准定得高得不可思议，但接下来的日子也同样特别。

We drifted south through fjords brushed with morning light, past the Seven Sisters, with the sunlight finally warming our faces. The coming days were filled with interesting lectures on whales to navigation, cooking demonstrations out on deck and craft sessions where wool and conversations intertwined.

我们向南漂流，穿过洒满晨光的峡湾，经过七姐妹，阳光终于温暖了我们的脸。接下来的几天充满了有趣的讲座，从鲸鱼到航海，甲板上的烹饪示范，以及羊毛和对话交织在一起的工艺会议。

At Åndalsnes, I took the gondola up the mountain. The view that greeted me left me utterly speechless. I walked for several hours, pausing often to take in the way the light shifted across the landscape. The unrivalled beauty of that place will stay with me forever.

在昂达尔斯内斯，我乘缆车上山。迎接我的景色让我完全说不出话来。我走了几个小时，经常停下来欣赏光线在风景中的变化。那个地方无与伦比的美丽将永远伴随着我。

The remaining evenings were cloudy and, as we ventured further south, the chances of northern lights dimmed. So, instead of racing out on deck every five minutes to see if we could catch a glimpse, we relaxed in the bar and enjoyed each other's company, reminiscing about the unforgettable night of vibrant aurora activity and sharing plans for future adventures.

剩下的晚上多云，当我们继续向南行驶时，北极光的可能性变暗了。因此，我们没有每五分钟跑到甲板上看看是否能瞥见一面，而是在酒吧放松，享受彼此的陪伴，回忆充满活力的极光活动的难忘夜晚，分享未来冒险的计划。

When I needed a moment of quiet, I found it in the sauna, its floor-to-ceiling windows framing the Norwegian coast like a painting that won't stay still. I followed the view with an ice-cold shower, just to let the Arctic in one last time.

当我需要片刻安静时，我在桑拿浴室里找到了它，它的落地窗像一幅不会静止的画一样框住了挪威海岸。我冲了一场冰冷的淋浴，只是为了让北极最后一次进来。

If you're looking for a floating city, this isn't it. But if you crave authenticity and a voyage that lets you see, taste and experience the coastline, then absolutely, this is the voyage for you.

如果你正在寻找一个漂浮的城市，这不是它。但是，如果你渴望真实性和一次让你看到、品尝和体验海岸线的航行，那么绝对，这是适合你的航行。

Life aboard the MS Trollfjord is very special indeed.

特罗尔峡湾号上的生活确实非常特别。

As fellow passenger Louise Capp from California told me, "The journey is the destination with Hurtigruten. The camaraderie that develops on the aurora cruise is the best part of the cruise." Capp went on to describe seeing the northern lights as "both awesome and magical. I felt alone in the universe; and I also felt deeply connected to my fellow stargazers".

正如来自加利福尼亚州的乘客路易丝·卡普告诉我的那样，“旅程就是海达路德的目的地。在极光邮轮上发展起来的友情是邮轮最精彩的部分。”卡普继续形容看到北极光“既令人敬畏又神奇。我在宇宙中感到孤独；我也感到与我的观星伙伴有着深深的联系”。

That feeling of shared wonder echoed again and again with everyone I spoke to. Art Killian, from Illinois, put it perfectly, "the Northern Lights! We'd met before, in photos … but on that chilly October night in the Norwegian fjords, they reached right out and shook our hand! Thanks to the remarkable crew of the MS Trollfjord, and the insight and guidance of our adopted pal, Daisy Dobrijevic, we saw them the way they need to be seen … wild, unpredictable, gorgeous and fleeting."

这种共同惊奇的感觉一次又一次地回荡在我交谈过的每个人身上。来自伊利诺伊州的阿特·基利安(Art Killian)说得很完美，“北极光！我们以前在照片中见过……但在挪威峡湾那个寒冷的十月夜晚，他们伸出手和我们握手！感谢特罗尔峡湾号出色的船员，以及我们收养的朋友黛西·多布里耶维奇(Daisy Dobrijevic)的洞察力和指导，我们看到了它们需要被看到的样子……狂野、不可预测、美丽而转瞬即逝。”

For Bob Miller from Illinois, the entire experience was both overwhelming and humbling. "Norway's coast is unique and ruggedly beautiful. The northern lights were stunning in their behavior and hints of color that technology only enhanced. Staring at them for over an hour was more than what I expected and really more than my mind could process. The universe amazed me yet again."

对于来自伊利诺伊州的鲍勃·米勒来说，整个经历既令人不知所措又令人谦卑。“挪威的海岸是独一无二的，崎岖而美丽。北极光的行为和色彩暗示令人惊叹，技术只会增强它们。盯着它们看一个多小时超出了我的预期，也超出了我的大脑的承受能力。宇宙再次让我惊叹。”

And Rose Miller, from Illinois, summed up what so many of us felt by the end of the voyage, "the fjords were immense and amazing to see. The cities and towns are so pretty and clean and the people are so very nice. The topper was seeing the northern lights. They were just truly stunning and left you awestruck."

来自伊利诺伊州的罗斯·米勒总结了我们许多人在航行结束时的感受，“峡湾是巨大的，看起来令人惊叹。城市和城镇是如此美丽和干净，人们是如此友好。最上面的人看到了北极光。它们真的很棒，让你肃然起敬。”

Hurtigruten's Signature Voyage offers time to explore, reflect and share the deck with other like-minded individuals in pursuit of something truly remarkable, the northern lights.

Hurtigruten海达路德的标志性航行提供了探索、反思和与其他志同道合的人分享甲板的时间，以追求真正非凡的东西，北极光。

I came for the northern lights but found so much more. The crew made everything effortless and the ship became a bubble of warmth and good energy. Days were as full or as quiet as you needed them to be.

在追寻北极光的途中，我发现了比极光更多的东西。船员们让所追寻一切变得毫不费力，这艘船变成了一个温暖和能量的幻境。日子就像你需要的那样充实或安静。

One night may give you the lights, but it's everything in between — the waiting, the wonder, the laughter — that makes the journey unforgettable.

一个晚上可能会给你带来光亮，但正是这两者之间的一切——静候、惊喜、欢笑——让旅途变得永生难忘。

Editor's note: This article was made possible by travel provided by Hurtigruten

编者注：本文由海达路德所提供的旅行赞助